There are various gods throughout the world, but have you ever seen a living, breathing goddess? That’s exactly what we’re going to explore today in this blog.
Located at the heart of Kathmandu in the city center, Kumari Ghar sits on the southern side of the UNESCO-listed Kathmandu Durbar Square premises. It is a divine home for the human embodiment of Goddess Taleju Bhavani, the patron deity of the Royal Family of Nepal, who symbolizes power and protection for the entire nation.
Kumari Pratha is the tradition of worshiping a young, pre-pubescent girl as the living manifestation of divine feminine energy by both Hindus and Buddhists. The word Kumari is derived from the Sanskrit word Kaumarya, which means young.
If you’re planning to visit this divine abode, here’s a detailed guide on how to reach it, what to see, and recommended accommodations for your trip.
Getting to Kumari Ghar
By Air (Travelers, Domestic and Foreign)
Kumari Ghar is only 7.8 kilometers from Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA).
From the airport, it takes about 30 minutes to reach Kumari Ghar by taxi.
Via Road (From India & Other Nepali Cities)
If you’re traveling from India, you can enter Nepal via the borders at Sunauli, Raxaul, or Kakarbhitta.
From there, you can take a bus to Kathmandu.
From places like Pokhara, Chitwan, and Lumbini, regular buses and taxis are also available to Kathmandu.
Entry Costs and Hours
Hours of Operation: 7 a.m.–12 p.m. and 4 p.m.–6 p.m.
Admission Charges (Included in the entry fee for Basantapur Durbar Square):
Free for citizens of Nepal
NPR 150 for citizens of SAARC countries
NPR 1,000 for other foreigners
Architecture of Kumari Ghar
The building is arranged like a typical Newari townhouse, with a courtyard known as a bahal at its center. You enter through a three-step entrance guarded by two white-painted stone lions. A huge wooden toran—a carved decorative arch—above the main door displays impressive craftsmanship.
With four finely carved windows on the first floor, seven on the second, and a variety of smaller, more detailed windows on the third, the exterior is all about the woodwork. The peacock patterns on the second-floor windows, a hallmark of Newari artistry, are particularly well-known. The building’s layered appearance is enhanced by deep cornices—ornamental moldings—that mark each level of the thick, polished A-class brick walls, which are about 18 to 24 inches thick.
The History of Kumari Ghar
Historical Importance
Kumari Ghar was built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla and has been renovated multiple times since then.
Kumari worship has been practiced in Nepal for over 2,300 years, according to some evidence.
In Nepal, it seems to have spread during the 6th century. Some written records from the 13th century CE describe the worship, ornamentation, and selection of the Kumari.
Mythological Legend
There are several tales about the history and origin of the Goddess Kumari, but two stand out as the most widespread and widely believed among many communities.
The first tale is of Jaya Prakash Malla, the last king of the Malla Dynasty. According to the story, Goddess Taleju would visit Jaya Prakash Malla’s chambers at night, appearing as a beautiful woman. They’d play Tripasa, a dice game, and she kept coming back every night—on one condition: the king couldn’t tell anyone about their meetings. But one evening, the king’s wife grew suspicious and followed him to his chambers, catching a glimpse of his secret rendezvous with the goddess. Taleju sensed the wife’s presence and stormed off in a fury. Later, she appeared to Jaya Prakash in a dream, declaring that she’d reincarnate as a living goddess in young girls from the Shakya and Bajracharya Newar communities of Ratnawali. Desperate to make amends, Jaya Prakash searched for the girl carrying Taleju’s spirit, and that’s how the Kumari tradition began.
Another legend regarding the origin of the Kumari Goddess revolves around King Trailokya. According to this legend, Goddess Taleju and King Trailokya played Tripasa every night and discussed the welfare of the country. One night, Trailokya made sexual advances toward the Goddess, and she became infuriated. As punishment, the Goddess stopped visiting the king’s place. The king worshipped and pleaded for her return. Later, Goddess Taleju agreed to appear in the body of a prepubescent girl from the Shakya family. Hence, the Kumari Goddess cult was established. Jaya Prakash also built a house for the Kumari to stay near the palace and named it Kumari Ghar.
Important Festivals at Kumari Ghar
Indra Jatra (September): A lively festival honoring Lord Indra, with the Kumari taking part in a grand procession through Kathmandu.
Dashain (September–October): The biggest Hindu festival in Nepal, where the Kumari blesses devotees with tika for prosperity and protection.
Tihar (October–November): The Festival of Lights, where the Kumari is worshipped as part of the celebrations.
Chhewar: A sacred thread ceremony where the Kumari blesses young boys from the Newar community.
Rato Machhindranath Jatra (April–May): A chariot procession where the Kumari participates in blessings and rituals.
Accommodations Close to Kumari Ghar
Hotels & Lodges (Expensive & Luxury)
Hotel Yak & Yeti: About a five-minute walk, or 0.5 km, from Kumari Ghar. This upscale hotel is a short walk away and features comfortable rooms with modern amenities.
Hotel Shree Harsh: A four-minute walk, or about 0.4 km, from Kumari Ghar. For those who wish to stay close to historical sites, this is an ideal, affordable option.
Kantipur Temple House: Around 0.3 km away, or a three-minute walk, from Kumari Ghar. This quaint boutique hotel features traditional Newar architecture and a warm atmosphere.
Durbar Square Hotel: About 0.2 km away, or a two-minute walk, from Kumari Ghar. Conveniently close to Durbar Square, this hotel offers easy access to Kumari Ghar and nearby attractions.
Hotel Heritage: Approximately 400 meters away, or a five-minute walk, from Kumari Ghar. This cozy, traditional hotel near Durbar Square provides a very comfortable stay close to Kumari Ghar.
Dining Options Close to Kumari Ghar
Madhyam Restaurant & Bar
~300 meters away (approximately a three-minute walk)
A popular spot for both international and regional Nepali food, with comfortable indoor and outdoor seating.
The Kitchen in Nepal
About 400 meters, or a five-minute walk
This restaurant specializes in traditional Nepali cuisine and serves momo, dal bhat, and other regional specialties.
The Old House
About 500 meters, or a six-minute walk
A renowned eatery with excellent vegetarian selections and a wide range of international and Nepali cuisine.
Dwarika’s Hotel – The Restaurant
About 800 meters, or a ten-minute walk
This restaurant blends rich traditional history with a sophisticated setting to provide a fine dining experience with local Newar cuisine.
Final Thoughts
Kumari Ghar offers tourists a deeply divine and spiritual experience of meeting a living goddess, alongside the rich heritage of traditional Newar architecture. If you’re visiting around late August or early September, be sure to join the biggest and most vibrant festival in Kathmandu, Indra Jatra, where the Kumari is paraded across the city in her golden palanquin.
