Located on the quiet banks of the Shipra River in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh, the Kal Bhairav Temple is a sacred place where devotees pray to Lord Kal Bhairav, a fierce form of Lord Shiva. Built around the 7th century, Kal Bhairav is the guardian deity of Ujjain and he is considered Senapati (Commander-in-Chief or Chief General) of the town.
Interesting Fact: The temple is known for offering liquor as prasad, a rare tantric ritual.
Legend of Kal Bhairav
The legend of the origin of Bhairava is traced back to a conversation between Brahma and Vishnu described in the Shiva Purana. Shiva manifested as a pillar of light to settle the dispute of superiority between Brahma and Vishnu. Brahma dishonestly proclaimed his victory, stating that he had discovered the higher end of the pillar of light. To punish him for his dishonesty and arrogance, Shiva produced Bhairava from the region between his brows. When Bhairava sought instruction from Shiva, the deity directed him to “worship Brahma with his sharp-pointed quick-moving sword”. Bhairava decapitated the fifth head of Brahma for uttering the falsehood. Vishnu interceded on Brahma’s behalf and sought mercy, and the two deities then worshipped Shiva.
Having committed the sin of brahmahatya (the murder of a Brahmin) by decapitating Brahma, Bhairava was pursued by the terrible female personification of the sin. The skull of Brahma was still attached to his hand. To expiate himself of the sin, Bhairava roamed the three worlds. He visited Vaikuntha, where he was honoured by Vishnu and Lakshmi. When Bhairava visited Kashi, the city of the liberated, Brahmahatya left him, and the skull of Brahma was released from his hand.
In another legend, Brahma is regarded to have stated to Vishnu to worship him as the supreme creator of the universe. Noting that both Shiva and he had five heads, Brahma came to believe that he was identical to Shiva and was equal to his powers. When his arrogance started to affect his role in the universe, Shiva threw a lock of his hair from his head. This assumed the form of Bhairava, who decapitated one of Brahma’s heads. When the skull (kapala) of Brahma was held in the hand of Bhairava, the creator deity’s ego was destroyed and he became enlightened.
Mythological Significance
Kal Bhairav Temple holds old tales. One story says Bhairav, Shiva’s wrathful form, was born here to guard Ujjain from evil. Another tale tells of a demon troubling sages, and Bhairav slayed it, staying as a protector. Devotees believe prayers here drive out fear and evil spirits. Some link Bhairav to the Shiv Mahapuran’s tale where Shiva’s anger took form to punish wrongdoers. As the name suggests, the temple is dedicated to Kal Bhairav (or Kala Bhairava). The deity’s image is a face in form of a rock layered with kumkuma or vermilion. The deity’s silver head is adorned with a Maratha-style pagri, a tradition dating back to the days of Mahadaji Shinde.
The worship of Ashta Bhairava (“eight Bhairavas”) is a part of the Saivite tradition, and the Kal Bhairav is considered their chief. The worship of Kal Bhairav was traditionally popular among the Kapalika and Aghora sects, and Ujjain was a prominent centre of these sects.
Historical Background
The present-day temple structure was built over the remains of an older temple though it’s roots go deep to the 7th century, built by Gupta lords. Ujjain was a holy city, a center of faith. A stone from 1230 marks fixes by local kings. It has been mentioned in the Avanti Khanda of the Skanda Purana. Islamic raiders harmed it in the 14th century, but Maratha lords, like the Scindias, rebuilt it in the 1700s. By the 1800s, British folk noted its strange rites. After 1947, the state trust took charge. Repairs in the 1990s kept its old look. Saints long back sang Bhairav’s praise, making it known. Now, many come to Ujjain’s sacred ground.
Architecture of Kal Bhairav Temple
Kal Bhairav Temple sits on one acre by the Shipra, made in simple style. The main part has a low stone top, carved with Bhairav’s dog, skulls, and tridents, all in dark stone. Inside, the Bhairav idol, black and fierce, stands with a sword, lit by oil lamps. The inner walls have plain stone with old prayers.
A small hall has four pillars, carved with gods and guards. Lesser shrines for Durga, Ganesh, and Hanuman are in the yard, made of stone. The Durga shrine shows her with a lion, for might. The Ganesh one, from 1300, has him with sweets, for smarts. The Hanuman one shows him kneeling, for strength. The stone yard feels holy, near the river. A plain gate has Bhairav’s face. A water ghat, Shipra’s edge, is for ritual dips. Pillars tell Bhairav’s tales, guiding those who pray. The river’s flow adds calm.
Rituals and Festivals
The temple stirs for festivals. Maha Shivratri, in February, is big, with all-night chants and oil pujas. Bhairav Ashtami, in November, honors Bhairav with lamps. Shravan, in July or August, sees daily idol baths with water. Bhairav Ashtami’s chants fill the yard with faith. The Shipra ghat, said to clean sins, draws crowds at festivals.
Information for Travelers
Hours and Entry: Open every day, 6:00 AM to 8:00 PM. It’s free to enter, but prayers cost ₹100–400. No pictures in the inner room.
Clothing: Wear clothes covering shoulders and knees. Women for prayers wear sarees or suits, men wear kurtas.
How to Get There:
Air: Indore Airport, 55 km away, is closest. Taxis take 1 hour, cost ₹1200–2000.
Train: Ujjain Station, 3 km off, links to Bhopal (3 hours). Autos cost ₹50–100.
Road: Buses from Indore (1 hour) reach Ujjain. Taxis cost ₹800–1200. Roads are quiet.
Best Time to Visit:
October to March is cool, 20–30°C. Weekdays are quiet. Bhairav Ashtami’s full, so plan early.
Nearby Attractions:
Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, 6 km away, is a Shiva shrine.
Harsiddhi Temple, 4 km away, is a Shakti Peetha.
Ram Ghat, 3 km away, is a Shipra bath spot.
Sandipani Ashram, 7 km away, was Krishna’s school.
