If you’ve ever dreamed of venturing to the wild, far edges of the world, Churchill, Manitoba is the kind of place that makes that dream come true. Known as the Polar Bear Capital of the World, this remote town is where the frozen tundra meets the icy shores of Hudson Bay, a place that feels miles away from anything familiar. Here, you can watch polar bears roam the coastline, see beluga whales swim in the river, and witness the northern lights paint the sky in ways you can’t quite imagine until you see it for yourself.
How to Get There: The Long Road North
Getting to Churchill is part of the adventure—there’s no easy highway to get there, so it’s all about taking the road less traveled.
If you don’t want to wait too long to get there, flying is the easiest option. From Winnipeg, Calm Air offers flights that take about two hours, landing you right at Churchill Airport (YYQ). Once you step off the plane, you’re greeted by the vast wilderness that stretches out in every direction. The landscape alone is worth the trip.
For those who have time to spare, the Via Rail train ride from Winnipeg is a journey like no other. It takes about 45 hours, covering over 1,700 kilometers through forests, lakes, and tundra. The ride can be slow, but it’s an immersive experience that lets you see the Canadian wilderness in its rawest form.
When to Visit: Different Seasons, Different Magic
The best time to visit Churchill depends on what you’re after.
- October to November: This is when the polar bears gather along the coast. As the ice starts to form on Hudson Bay, the bears gather to wait for it to solidify enough for them to head out to hunt. Temperatures usually hover around -5°C to -15°C—chilly but manageable.
- Summer (July to August): If you’re more interested in the wildlife of the water, summer is the time to go. The Churchill River becomes a gathering place for beluga whales, and you can see them up close from a boat or even a kayak. Summer also offers long days (sometimes 18 hours of daylight), perfect for exploring the landscape.
- Winter (January to March): While winter in Churchill is brutally cold, often dipping below -30°C, it’s also when the northern lights are at their brightest. With clear, dark skies and no light pollution, Churchill is one of the best places on Earth to see the aurora borealis.
- Spring (April to June): Spring is a quieter time, with the thaw beginning to set in. It’s not the best season if you’re hoping to see wildlife in action, though, as many animals are less active during this time.
Where to Stay: Comfort in the Wilderness
While Churchill is small, it has a handful of places to stay, each with its own charm.
- Tundra Inn is a popular option for most visitors. It’s clean, cozy, and has a bar where locals like to gather. After a day in the cold, this is a perfect spot to warm up and relax.
- Polar Inn & Suites offers basic, no-frills rooms but is perfectly located in town. Some rooms even come with kitchenettes, which is great if you’d rather prepare your own meals.
If you’re looking for something more off the beaten path, you can head out to one of the wilderness lodges just outside of town. Lazy Bear Lodge is a lovely, rustic spot where you can enjoy a log-cabin experience complete with hearty meals and polar bear tours. For a truly remote experience, Seal River Heritage Lodge sits right on the coast, and if you’re lucky, you might even see polar bears right outside your window.
Eating in Churchill: Simple, Hearty, and Local
Churchill’s food scene isn’t what you’d call diverse, but it’s perfect for fueling up after a day spent in the cold.
- Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant is a local favorite, especially for its pickerel fish and chips. The fish is caught fresh from the area, and the cozy atmosphere makes it a great place to relax after a chilly adventure.
- Lazy Bear Café serves up hearty meals like bison burgers and caribou stew. These rich, gamey dishes are exactly what you need after spending hours in the wild.
Seafood is also a big deal here—Arctic char is a must-try. It’s usually grilled or smoked and pairs wonderfully with wild cranberry sauce. For a snack or to take with you, try bannock, a traditional flatbread that’s great for soaking up sauces or enjoying with jam.
What to See: Nature at Its Wildest
Churchill’s biggest draw is the incredible wildlife and untamed landscapes. Here are the experiences you don’t want to miss:
- Polar Bear Viewing: This is the big one. Between October and November, you’ll get the chance to see polar bears up close. The best way to do this is on a tundra buggy, a large vehicle designed to get you out onto the tundra for a safe view of these magnificent creatures.
- Beluga Whale Watching: If you’re visiting in summer, beluga whales take over the Churchill River. You can get out on the water in a boat or kayak, and it’s an experience you won’t forget. The whales are curious and playful, often coming right up to the boat.
- The Northern Lights: Winter is the prime time for this spectacle. Churchill is one of the top places in the world to see the aurora borealis—on a clear night, the sky is painted with stunning ribbons of green, purple, and pink.
- Prince of Wales Fort: If you’re into history, don’t miss this 18th-century fort located just across the river from Churchill. Built by the Hudson’s Bay Company, it’s now a National Historic Site where you can learn about the region’s past.
Travel Tips: What You Need to Know
- Getting Around: There are no car rentals in Churchill, so you’ll have to rely on taxis, tours, or just walking around. It’s a small town, so it’s easy to get around, but booking tours for wildlife viewing is a good idea.
- Weather: If you’re visiting in winter, pack plenty of layers—insulated boots, a good parka, and gloves are essential. In summer, don’t forget bug repellent, as the mosquitoes can be relentless.
- Wildlife Safety: Polar bears are a constant presence in Churchill, so always stay with a guide when venturing into bear territory. Never approach them.
- Wi-Fi and Power: Churchill is remote, so don’t expect reliable Wi-Fi or cell service. Power outages happen occasionally, so make sure to keep your devices charged when you can.
Why Churchill Is Unforgettable
Churchill has a way of getting under your skin. It’s not just the wildlife or the stunning natural beauty—it’s the isolation, the wildness, and the quiet that takes over when you step out into the tundra. Whether you’re watching polar bears from a tundra buggy, kayaking with belugas, or just standing still and looking at the sky, it’s a place that makes you feel small in the best way possible.
If you’re looking for adventure, Churchill is waiting. It’s a place where nature is still wild, and you can experience the world’s rawest beauty.
