Crowning a high hilltop in Changu, the ancient Hindu temple of Changu Narayan is among the seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the valley. It is a two-tiered pagoda structure rich in wood and stone carvings. The surroundings includes a traditional Newari settlement and a Hindu temple complex, dating back to the 4th century.
The main statue in the sanctum is worshipped by Hindus as Garuda Narayan, and by Buddhists as Hariharihari Vahan Lokeshwara.
If you’re keen on visiting this sacred place, here’s a detailed guide on how to reach it, what to see, and recommended accommodations nearby for your trip.
Fun Fact: Changu Narayan Temple is considered to be the oldest temple in the history of Nepal.
Reaching Changu Narayan Temple
By Air (For Domestic and International Travelers)
Changu Narayan is just 12 km away from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. A taxi ride from the airport will get you there in roughly 45 minutes.
By Road (From India & Other Nepali Cities)
If you’re coming from India, you can cross into Nepal through border points like Sunauli, Raxaul, or Kakarbhitta. From those locations, buses are available to take you to Kathmandu. Travelers from Nepali cities such as Pokhara, Chitwan, or Lumbini can also find regular buses or taxis heading to Kathmandu.
Entry Fees and Visiting Hours
Operating Hours: Open daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Admission Costs:
Free for Nepali citizens
NPR 100 for SAARC country nationals
NPR 300 for other foreign visitors
History and Mythology
Changu Narayan Temple is considered to be the oldest temple in the history of Nepal, dating back to the 4th century. It was constructed and consecrated by King Lichhavi Vishnu.
History and Mythology
Historical records found on a stone inscription provide evidence that the stupa was already an important Buddhist pilgrimage destination by the 5th century AD. Its origins, however, date to a much earlier time, long before the arrival of Buddhism in the valley.
The Legend
In ancient times, a Gwala (cow herder) took a cow from a Brahmin named Sudarshan to graze in Changu, a forest of Champak trees. The cow always grazed under one tree, where a small boy would secretly drink its milk. Over time, the Gwala noticed the cow was giving less milk and sought Sudarshan’s help. The next day, they hid behind the tree and saw the boy drinking the milk. Believing the boy was a devil, the Brahmin cut down the tree, only for human blood to pour out. Worried they had committed a crime, the Brahmin and Gwala cried. Lord Vishnu then appeared and explained that he had been cursed for killing Sudarshan’s father, wandering as Garuda, and living on the milk. When the tree was cut, Vishnu’s curse was lifted. The Brahmin and Gwala then built a temple to honor him, and the site became sacred. Today, Sudarshan’s descendants are priests, and the Gwala’s family are conservators. Another legend speaks of a warrior named Changu who defeated the mighty Pranjal, and in his honor, the temple was built.
Architecture of Changu Narayan
The temple is decorated with some of the finest carvings in the Kathmandu Valley, and the collection of statues surrounding the temple is the best you’ll see outside the National Museum of Nepal. Inside the courtyard of the main temple, you will also find temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ashta Matrika, Chhinnamasta, Kileshwor, and Krishna. The diagonal beams supporting the roof are carved with intricate wood carvings of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu and various tantric goddesses. The temple’s four entrances are guarded by stone lions, griffins, elephants, and sarabhas (part-lion, part-bird creatures from Hindu mythology).
The entrance door is gilded with carvings of Nāga (snakes). On the main entrance gate (i.e., the western entrance gate), you can find the Chakra, Sankha, Kamal, and Khadga all at the top of a stone pillar. These stone pillars have an inscription in Sanskrit, which is considered to be the oldest inscription of Nepal. The stone inscription pillar was erected by Licchavi King Manadeva in 464 AD, telling the tale of how a king convinced his mother not to die by suicide after her husband’s death.
Accommodations Near Changu Narayan
Hotel Heritage Bhaktapur
Distance: 2 km, 5-minute drive or 25-minute walk.
Features: Traditional Newari architecture, free Wi-Fi, in-house restaurant, peaceful ambiance.
Price Range: NPR 5,000 to 8,000 per night.
Planet Bhaktapur Hotel
Distance: 3 km, 10-minute drive or 30-minute walk.
Features: Spacious rooms, garden, free breakfast, relaxing atmosphere.
Price Range: NPR 3,500 to 6,000 per night.
Subha Guest House
Distance: 1.5 km, 20-minute walk.
Features: Budget-friendly, clean rooms, free Wi-Fi, rooftop views.
Price Range: NPR 1,500 to 3,000 per night.
Dining Options Near Changu Narayan
Changu Village Restaurant (0.3 km, 6-min walk)
A cozy spot offering traditional Newari and Nepali dishes, including momo, dal bhat, and bara. Great for a relaxed meal with a local touch.
Everest Organic Café (0.5 km, 10-min walk)
A peaceful café serving organic vegetarian and vegan options, fresh juices, and Nepali teas. Perfect for a light and healthy meal.
Newa Suli Restaurant (0.4 km, 8-min walk)
A traditional Newari eatery offering authentic dishes like yomari, choila, and local rice beer (aaila).
Hilltop Restaurant & Café (0.7 km, 12-min walk)
A rooftop restaurant with stunning views of the valley, serving a mix of Nepali, Indian, and continental cuisine.
Final Thoughts
Changu Narayan Temple in Bhaktapur is undoubtedly one of the historical and cultural gems of the Kathmandu Valley, a testament to the enduring beauty of Hindu culture. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, make sure to visit this spiritual marvel—and you can even hike up the hill for a bit of added adventure!
